The RatePubs Experience

Papageno,Italy

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 06:50:03 PDT

I had always assumed Bergamo to be just a Ryanair stop; somewhere anonymous that was near the place you really wanted to go. But having a day to kill before my return flight I found myself changing my opinion. The old town of Bergamo is small but beautiful and a wander around its narrow alleys is a perfect way to spend an afternoon. And when you get tired of sightseeing you'll notice that Bergamo, in addition to having nice buildings, is also home to a surprisingly large number of pubs for an Italian town. Even more surprising is the fact that so many of them specialise in quality Belgian beers.

Papageno is situated on the narrow and winding main streets in Bergamo Old Town. When we first walked past it grabbed our attention thanks to the display of Belgian beers in its window. At the time we had just arrived, the sun was shining and inside looked dark and empty so we made a mental note and continued on. An hour or so later we walked by again and were unable to resist its call. Once inside it turned out that it only appeared dark when seen from the sunlit street. in fact it was actually bright without being blinding. We sat down and the barman brought us a beer menu.

Papageno not only specialises in Belgian beers but has a good eclectic mix. Rather than stocking only the more well known brands such as Stella we were able to find niche ones such as Duchesse de Bourgogne and some Lambics which I had never seen outside of Belgium itself. As we were the only people in the bar these arrived quickly and we could sit back and look around.

Papageno is a small place arranged around a semi-circular bar. It has seating for maybe 50 people but a lot of standing room if necessary. The furnishings are primarily wood and the floor is tiled. There is one unisex toilet cubicle which, while it wasn't dirty, did feel grubby and doubled as a storage for the cleaning utensils. The seats are not the sort you lounge in but are comfortable.

Papageno does not appear to be a party pub. Radiohead were playing when we first arrived and this was followed by some low key piano-jazz. All at background volume which allowed people talk. The single barman on duty was pleasant if somewhat distant (perhaps a result of language mismatch between him and us) and while he was quick when the bar was empty the service did slow when more people came in to shelter from a thunderstorm. Luckily we had full glasses at that stage.

Since we had a flight to catch we only had a short time to enjoy Papageno. It was a nice find in the heart of old Bergamo and provided an opportunity for some nice and rare Belgian beers. Always a good thing to happen, especially when it happens unexpectedly. Unfortunately we didn't get to see what it's like at night and determine if it has a life of its own or if it remains a place with little mixing between the patrons. But if we're back in Bergamo Old Town we'll by calling in to find out and enjoy a laid back beer.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Papageno Conversation Corner

Orzo Bruno,Italy

Tue, 26 Aug 2008 10:59:14 PDT

Italy doesn't really have a pub or beer culture and so doesn't really do pubs themselves too well. You might think Pisa would be a bit different since it is both a University town and a popular tourist destination but, while there are lots of small cafes and cute places to stop for a glass of wine, a wander around the centre of town threw up only a handful of pubs or bars. The large windows of Orzo Bruno running the length and height of the building provided a view inside that was enticing enough to ensure we didn't pass by.

This is a student pub. The door is at one end of the room and you go up a step to get to the bar proper. The bar itself runs lengthways down the room which is rectangular in shape, about a third as wide as it is long. As befits a good student pub the décor is all old and distressed wood. This includes the bar, the floor and the tables. This is not plush décor but it does have character.

Speaking of students, we visited over Easter when a lot of them had gone home. As a result the numbers in Orzo Bruno were down compared to a typical semester weekend. This meant that the percentage of tourists was greater than normal and the place felt quieter. Those students that were present were having a good time but did not dominate the room. In total there is seating for about 60 or 70 people at tables and another 10 at the bar. All seating was gone by 10:30 but there was still plenty of standing room for latecomers. Music was low key alternative student standards such as Radiohead played at a volume that let people chat without having to shout.

Orzo Bruno is a specialist pub that, at the time we visited, was selling a limited range of 4 microbrewed beers ranging in strength from 5% to 7%. The description of each was displayed on a board at the bar and also on the back of each menu. The description was of course in Italian and since we don't understand that language very well we felt obliged to try each one in order to properly understand its style and character . We weren't overly wild about the 2 pilsners and settled on the third one listed. Named "Valderarossa" this was a rich, malty and very satisfying ale. Along with the drinks you can also get a limited selection of food ranging from salads to pasta. Plus they offer free snacks early in the evening, just help yourself from the selection on the bar.

In all Orzo Bruno is a nice relaxed student bar in the heart of a town that does not really do pubs. It has character which isn't forced and would make a good spot to while away some hours even if Pisa was a city filled with pubs. Worth a visit if you're ever in the neighbourhood.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Orzo Bruno Conversation Corner

The Signature Lounge,Illinois

Tue, 08 Jan 2008 06:35:54 PST

Downtown Chicago has one of the worlds great skylines and one of the main attractions for any visitor is to see the city from the 94th floor Observation Deck of the Hancock Building. It's a great view and deservedly one of the most popular attractions - but there's a more enjoyable way to get the same view from the same building. The Signature Lounge is a cocktail bar on the 96th floor with floor-to-ceiling windows which offer you the opportunity to view the city while enjoying a drink.

We paid it a visit about 4pm on Christmas Eve. A quick express elevator through the 96 floors, a right turn down the corridor and it was time for that drink. While the room was pretty full we were lucky and could pick a table immediately but even when there's a wait it is generally less than 10 minutes.

The lounge occupies a third of the floor, the remainder being taken by the Signature Room restaurant. Despite this it's not actually that large since the Hancock building narrows towards the top. The room is rectangular with seating for about 150-200 people . There are three rows of tables with those beside the window being the most sought after . But all tables have a good view thanks to the large windows. We were surprised to find that the padding on the seats were torn and that the overall feel of the décor was of a place that has seen better days. But despite this the atmosphere was lively and welcoming. This probably has a lot to do with the fact that the average customer is a tourist and so is out to have a good time. It's unlikely you'll see too many Chicagoans here unless they are acting as tour guides for friends. As a result you won't have any trouble finding someone to take your picture and will quite possibly find yourself being asked to take some of other groups.

When we arrived it was still daylight and the view across the city was amazing. The main window faces away from the lake towards the body of the city while the left hand side gives a birds eye view of the downtown skyscrapers along the Magnificent Mile. We selected a cocktail and after took some pictures as the sun set. As it did so the lights across the city came on making a fantastic seen even more amazing. We felt we had to wait for the complete picture so we ordered another cocktail each. We were rewarded by a helicopter flying past the window.

The drinks menu consists primarily of martinis with some other cocktails wine and beer also available. There are also some snack options. But it's not cheap at an average of 13 dollars per cocktail. On the other hand entry is free compared to the 14 dollar entry to the Observation Lounge two floors below. Personally I would rather spend the money on the cocktail and the ability to take it easy. This mix of atmosphere, view and cocktail makes The Signature Lounge a place to visit whether it's your first or 20th time in Chicago. We'll definitely be back.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the The Signature Lounge Conversation Corner

Pastoge,Lithuania

Tue, 10 Oct 2006 05:30:04 PDT

Not very long ago having a drink at Pastoge required a special government permit. Back then Lithuania was part of the Soviet Union and the whole coastal was reserved for the exclusive use of senior Communist Party leaders. This of course ensured that these servants of the people in the Workers Paradise wouldn't have to associate with those same workers who lowered the tone of the place. 15 years after Lithuania gained its independence the same coastline is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the little town of Nida is a laid-back holiday destination popular with Lithuanians and foreigners.

The town is small and relaxed and makes a perfect spot to unwind for a few days. It is dotted with small bars and restaurants of varying quality, the majority of which are in traditional buildings. Pastoge is an example of this and it is in a wooden building which from the outside reminds one of a converted barn. Inside it different and is both modern and bright. There are approximately 10 wooden tables with benches in here and they are widely spaced allowing for a good degree of privacy from overheard conversations. There is also a patio in front facing the sea. As you would expect during the summer this is the most popular spot and you can easily find that there are no seats outside while inside there all seats are empty. Directly in front of Pastoge there are a couple of swings and slides which make it popular for parents to have a drink here while knowing that their children are safe and entertained.

Pastoge does not have the largest menu in Nida but the selection of main meals will keep you occupied for a few days and the quality is very good. The deserts however leave a lot to be desired. One evening we had an apple pie and a Tiramisu. The pie was good but the Tiramisu appeared to be a sponge cake smothered in whipped cream from a can. When it comes to drinks the range includes the usual Lithuanian and international beers along with a a good selection of spirits and cocktails. Unlike every other bar we tried in Nida however it also stocks Svyturys Degintas This is a relatively new beer from Svyturys (Lithuanias largest brewery) and is surprisingly difficult to find. The name means "burned" and I believe this refers to burned hops used in its brewing. In appearance it is like a red-ale but is not as heavy. It is a good beer and a well worth checking out for both summer and winter, and when in Nida is worth the trip to Pastoge for.

Service in Pastoge is quick and the staff were both friendly and efficient on every night we visited. One night there were two men who were extremely drunk (but quiet and not disturbing anyone) and at the end of the night one of the staff helped walk them towards home. This by the way was the only time I saw anyone drunk and in general Pastoge - like the rest of Nida - is very friendly and relaxed.

Pastoge rapidly proved to be our favourite place in Nida. Even when we went somewhere else to eat we found ourselves coming back here most nights for a nightcap. And all without a permit.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Pastoge Conversation Corner

Le Cercueil,Belgium

Sun, 02 Jul 2006 04:32:27 PDT

Sitting around a coffin, admiring funeral wreaths and having a beer is not an average night out by any means. But it's one that a lot of people do in Brussels, and tonight some of the RatePubs team were among them.

It's not difficult to find a good bar in Brussels but finding one as odd as Le Cercueil probably is. It's situated right in the heart of Brussels, just off the Grand Place but even with such a central location it is actually quite easy to miss. There are no neon signs; instead look out for the dead flowers in the dusty window of what appears to be an old funeral home. Then make your way up the shabby corridor next to it where you will find a dark room lit by candles and ultraviolet lights where people gather around coffins to drink from skull-shaped mugs.

The main bar in Le Cercuiel holds 5 tables which are made of coffins with glass placed over them. The walls are uniformly black and decorated with dead wreaths while the lighting is violet with additional candles on the tables. The music is low key blues. All of which makes it sound a morbid place, but in fact the atmosphere is quite good. The night we were there most of the people were chatting quietly around the tables. On larger group were having a little more fun and appeared to be over for the weekend

The small size of the bar can be deceiving and is often a turn-off for potential customers as they arrive at the top of the corridor and peer into the darkness. In the time we spent there a number of people arrived at the door, saw the full tables and the quiet mood, and turned around. Only when one group made their way into the bar and looked around did we discover that there is another room through a doorway at the end of the main bar. I don't know how big this is but it appeared significantly larger than the main bar itselfand also a lot darker.

The night we were present there was one barman serving, which was plenty for the number of people present. You have the usual large choice of bottled beers that are common in Belgium as well as a smaller selection on tap. We chose Leffe Browns on tap and they were served to us in skull-shaped mugs.

The funereal theme of Le Cercuiel does not extend to the toilets. These are up a narrow stairs and are small, plain and unclean. The seat of the gents toilet was lying on the floor, and there was a lack of both soap and toilet paper in both the ladies and the gents. Basically they were unhygienic and were not places to linger. Their poor quality also made us ask questions about the cleanliness of the bar itself and what was hidden by the low lighting.

The music selection in Le Cercuiel the night we visited was classic blues from artists such as BB King and Buddy Guy. This was played at a low volume and was really only audible if you weren't talking. Still it was better than playing funeral marches.

Le Cercueil is a theme bar unlike any other I've seen. Instead of the usual high energy fun it goes for funeral and seems to be quite happy to dissuade potential customers from coming in. Stay long enough however and youll find it's a nice place to visit. You're unlikely to fall into conversation with other customers but if you come with your own group you'll have some fun. The only downside really was the worry about the cleanliness and if you feel the need to use the toilet it's probably a good time to settle the bill and head elsewhere.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Le Cercueil Conversation Corner

Delirium Cafe,Belgium

Tue, 20 Jun 2006 05:48:26 PDT

At some point in the evening we calculated that you could easily try every beer in Delirium Cafe in just 2 years. All you would need to do is have 10 beers, 2 nights a week for 2 years. Not an unpleasant task given the quality of some of the beers available, and the place you have to drink them in.

Delirium Cafe has a small upstairs area in a narrow alley containing the other - not so famous - Brussels urinating statue, but the majority of it is downstairs in a pretty large cellar. There's not much from the outside that suggests this is anything special. Sure, when you go down the steps you notice that the walls and ceiling are covered in different beer trays from around the world but it's only when you notice the certificate from the Guinness Book of Records that you realise something is up. It turns out that Delirium Cafe holds the official world record for the greatest selection of beers available. All told they guarantee you a choice of 2004 from a total of over 2500. As you might expect this means you spend a lot of the night choosing the next one and it is strongly recommended that you ask for the book which lists them all.

Unlike the majority of Belgian bars there is no table service and you must go to the bar to be served. If there is a large crowd it can make it a little difficult to order the more unusual beers. Service is not too slow but cannot be said to be rushed either.

Once you get over the shell-shock of choice then next question becomes whether Delirium Cafe would be worth visiting even if it hadn't such a selection. If you like lively, slightly raucous places then the answer is yes. This is a bar which doesn't stand on ceremony. It is happy to see people enjoying themselves a maybe not unusual occurrence when some of the beers are over 12% in strength. This particular night the place was full and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. Along the back wall a group of international students were making enough noise to fill 4 bars alone. But at no point was there any feeling of threat or any reason to think anyone in the bar would be anything other than friendly. Perhaps the biggest problem is that given the range of nationalities present getting chatting to people is a bit hit and miss.

The toilets are at the back of the room and while they are generally clean the dodgy looking hand towel lying on the sink in both the ladies and gents meant that everyone in our group let their hands dry the way nature intended.

Music selection included a lot of 80s and was played at a loud enough volume to keep things lively but not too loud to drown out conversation - a trick a lot of bars could do with emulating. While there was no live music tonight the famous book of beers did mention a weekly jam session on Thursdays. And a 20% increase in prices when it was on!

"I have another 1,993 beers to drink" is possibly the best excuse ever to return to a bar. But if you like informal, lively party pubs you won't need an excuse to revisit Delirium Cafe anyway.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Delirium Cafe Conversation Corner

Poechenellekelder,Belgium

Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:32:22 PDT

If you've ever visited Brussels you've almost definitely seen Poechenellekelder. This quirky little pub is located just across the road from the landmark Manneken Pis. In good weather the pavement outside is laid with 8 or so tables from where you can enjoy a beer and watch the tourist cameras clicking away by the hundreds, making it a pleasant stop. In the evening, or during bad weather, or if you just don't like the sunlight you can venture inside where you'll find it's much larger than it looks from outside.

We visited on a Thursday evening and made our way up the metal staircase that is just inside the door. Inside the primary furnishing is wood and there are two room separated by an archway. The front room was empty when we arrived at about 8pm and we made our way into the second where we found a table and sat down. The room itself is not too large and holds about 6 tables and maybe 80 people.

The bar takes up a good section of the corner though you don't need to go to it to be served. Just as well as you have a lot of beers to choose from. On our visit we counted 117 available, ranging from relatively standard ones like Leffe to obscure ones where they even specify the year it was brewed. If you're feeling adventurous be sure to check the price first as some of these go up to 40 Euro a bottle. Every option we picked from the menu was available and as you can expect from such a range there are some you will prefer to others. I don't believe Poechenellekelder (don't try saying the name at the end of the night!) serves food though I didn't specifically ask about this.

To call the walls busy would be to do them an injustice. They are covered in pictures, cartoons and mirrors of the Mannekin Pis interspersed with what appear to be random pictures and posters of other objects. The most unusual are either the muskets & crossbows on the ceiling, or the wooden dolls hanging from various points around the room. Or maybe it's the two life-size mannequins having a chat at a table by the back stairs. It can be hard to tell after a few different beers.

Whether the decoration policy is deliberate and calculated or whether it just evolved is hard to say, my guess is that it's a bit of both. But whatever the source it does not feel forced and gives the bar a quirky atmosphere. This is further enhanced by the selection of 50s easy classics from people like Dean Martin and Doris Day which provide the soundtrack to the night.

Though it was not in use tonight there is another room down the stairs beside the two mannequins at the table. The tables here are topped with old fashioned sewing machines though the walls are less busy. The toilets are also down here and they were clean throughout the night, with all toilet paper and soap present.

By the time we left the bar it had filled nicely. Both upstairs rooms were full and the low hum of conversation bubbled below the 50s songs. It might be busier on a weekend but based on our visit there are a lot of worse ways to spend a Thursday night than in Poechenellekelder. If you're looking for a relaxed and enjoyable night in the center of Brussels it's worth a visit and a taste of a few different beers.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Poechenellekelder Conversation Corner

Cruises,Ireland

Sun, 23 Apr 2006 05:52:15 PDT

You expect to find lots of traditional music in Ennis on a Saturday night in April. But it was surprisingly difficult as we wandered the streets at 11pm. Despite being in the heart of countryside famous for its traditional Irish music we found pubs that had music on other nights cancelled it on Saturday. The reason for this was not clear but eventually we found ourselves outside Cruises, feeling sure that this famous bastion of traditional music would not disappoint.

Cruises is a deceptively large bar. The small front area with a low roof and large ceiling beams extends through an archway into a little snug with an open fire. At the end of the bar the room extends back even further into a large modern bar. Despite this large size Cruises feels like a cozy traditional pub thanks primarily to the low ceilings and small size of the individual areas.

It was standing room only when we first entered and getting to the bar was a bit of a struggle, but once there service was quick and friendly. The crowd ebbed and flowed throughout the night, and while it was never empty there were periods when it was less packedonly to fill up again after 20 minutes or so. This worked to our advantage as, after fifteen minutes leaning against a corner, the table next to the fireplace became free. We rapidly settled in for the rest of the evening.

Despite these periodic reduction in the size of the crowd you only knew they had happened by looking around. There was no indication from a reduction in volume as the lively soundtrack of people enjoying themselves was never reduced. Throughout the evening multiple conversations washed against each other, eventually merging into one large hum.

We had come to Cruises looking for music and we did find it. But it wasn't the traditional music for which they are famous. Instead a solo guitar player held court beside the front door. The music he played was not traditional and neither was it a traditional bar sing-a-long. Instead of such standards as Simon & Garfunkel, The Pogues, or The Beatles we were treated to Jeff Buckley and Leonard Cohen. All good music and a welcome change but not a selection designed to get the crowd involved. And played at a volume that was only audible in the front of the bar. I got the feeling that Cruises is no longer interested in live music despite both its reputation and the numerous autographed pictures that adorn the walls. Personally I feel that this is a loss but given the crowd present on this night it would seem to be what the customers want. Perhaps some profound sign-of-the-times meaning can be read into this, though I'm not sure what that would be.

Cruises is a nice bar in a central location in Ennis.While my visitors were slightly disappointed at the music they still enjoyed their visit as did I. This is a comfortable and friendly bar in which to spend an evening and still worth a visit when in Ennis.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the Cruises Conversation Corner

O'Caseys,Netherlands

Thu, 16 Mar 2006 12:35:31 PST

Sitting in O'Caseys on a day of World Cup qualifying matches you realise just how international The Hague really is. Dozens of different countries play on four different screens across the day and accents from every one of those nationalities can be heard among the bustle of the crowd.

O'Caseys is a long pub. And for half its length it's also a narrow one because the bar itself takes up a significant part of the width. Once the bar ends the room widens out slightly to a square area with low seating. There is a door at the very end which leads to a courtyard. This is used primarily in the summer for barbecues but does not see much use on a cold winter afternoon. There's also an upstairs which is reached by a staircase half way down the room. In total O'Caseys holds approximately 150 people.

O'Caseys doesn't hide its Irishness under a bushel. The walls are decorated with the usual Guinness mirrors as well as posters of Irish doors and the like, while the jukebox has a significant percentage of Irish standards. But despite this Irishness O'Caseys is almost a community centre for all nationalities in The Hague and a lot of the customers are regulars who know both each other and the staff. It's not an exclusive community and coming in as a stranger the feeling is one of a good natured welcome where it is easy to get chatting to the person next to you. Regular quiz nights, live music, and just about every sports event on TV also help build this community feeling.

The menu in O'Caseys is standard pub grub such as chips, fish, burgers etc. They also do a regular Sunday roast. If you visit during the summer you might also be able to go to one of the barbecues already mentioned. These are very popular and the atmosphere is usually fun and relaxed. A main meal will set you back about 8 while snacks such as sandwiches and chicken wings are less than a fiver.

Thankfully O'Caseys doesn't follow the usual practice of Irish Pubs around the world and increase all prices by 2 Euro or more. This means a pint of Guinness will set you back about 4.20 which is average for The Hague. You also have a choice of Magners, Heineken or Murphy's on tap.

O'Caseys is busy on most weekends. But a lot of foreigners in The Hague go home during long weekends and other holidays and at such times O'Caseys itself can be disconcertingly empty just like The Hague itself in fact. But choose an average weekend or a World Cup day as we did and you can spend a good day with a mix of people from around the globe.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the O'Caseys Conversation Corner

The Old Oak,Ireland

Fri, 10 Mar 2006 03:24:22 PST

You don't get to be one of the most popular pubs in any city without doing something right. Which means you can be pretty certain that The Old Oak is popular for a reason other than its prime location, especially since what started as a small city-centre pub has continued growing until it is now what can only be described as a superpub.

The Old Oak began life a little over 15 years ago as a small pub holding maybe 50 people. It gradually expanded into neighbouring premises and is now a large meandering pub with four different bars and a selection of nooks and crannies. From the front door you enter the original refurbished bar and make your way through an archway into a large room with a second bar. To your left a passage leads to a third bar, while the right has a stage and beyond that another room with a fourth bar. The primary building materials are wood and brick. These are used in different ratios but still provide an overall feeling of being in the one bar.

The mention of a "superpub" is usually not a good sign, conjuring up pictures of massive drink emporiums without atmosphere or warmth. The Old Oak, despite its size manages to avoid the worst of this because the individual areas are not too large themselves.

I last paid a visit to The Old Oak on a Saturday evening. At 8pm the bar had a smattering of customers and there were plenty of seats available. Waiting for a pint of Murphy's to settle I took a look around. The customers ranged from people in their early 20s up to at least one man in his 70s. As it filled up the profile changed and at the end of the night the average age was early thirties with an almost equal number of males and females.

The pint arrived and was smooth and creamy. I have generally found the quality of the stout to be very good in The Old Oak, though I have had some bad lagers in the past. The price is standard for Cork city with my Murphy's costing 3.80 and a Heineken 3.90.

One of the real attractions of the Old Oak is its long dedication to live music. As you will see from the posters around the bar there are bands many nights a week, usually with no cover charge. These play on the stage in the main bar and the pictures are relayed to the TVs around the bar though the sound isn't. There wasn't a band playing tonight but there was a DJ by the stage.

There are toilets both in the main bar and up stairs. There was no signature list to say if they were checked regularly or not but they were clean throughout the night.

The Old Oak is successful for a reason. They put effort into getting good bands, the pint is good, and the atmosphere lively. If you're in Cork pay it a visit. Even if you don't love it you'll have funand probably find yourself going back at least once.

Do you think our experience reflects yours? Leave a review or discuss it in the The Old Oak Conversation Corner